Sunday, August 28, 2011

One year today


Leaving Johannesburg, 27 August 2010

It’s been a year today exactly since we arrived on the island.  

After a really late night last night (good 40th birthday party) and a very early start (5.30am mountain biking on Peter Island) I’m not feeling very sparkly, in fact I’m downright shattered. So here’s a collection of some fairly random thoughts about the last year which touch on a few themes:    

Meteorology
We arrived on-island last year the day before Hurricane Earl (category 4) hit and we’ve just gone through another hurricane this  week (Irene – category 1). One already feels like a bit of an old-hand and my knowledge of meteorology has exponentially increased alongside tropical waves and depressions.

Weather in the Caribbean is generally very predictable:  Hot, Freaking Hot, 80 to 100% humidity, wind, rain, storms and flash floods  - apart from at Christmas when one’s  mother is visiting, and Cape Town, notorious for variable weather at Christmas time, was warmer….but that also has a certain predictability to it. 

Isolated enough to be more connected

Gone are the Robinson Crusoe days when living on an island meant being a castaway. The reality of high-speed broadband internet ( a phenomenon not yet fully experienced  in South Africa) means that our internet connection is on day and night, and our computers are our main source of everything: news, communication, shopping, entertainment and education.

So much so, I feel that a large part of this year has seen me gorging on the internet and catching up on what I used to think was only useful for online banking. We watch BBC live with our iPlayer, blast out BBC Radio 3 and 5FM on streaming audio and  read the New York Times online. We Google absolutely everything under the sun,  follow Facebook, scan the weather radars and watch the satellites and most late afternoons will find me on the sofa on the balcony, laptop on my knee and a glass of Pinot Grigio beside me. I feel enormously connected to the rest of the world and not in the least bit marooned.   

Finite living

I read a blog the other day of a fellow South African gal who moved to Austen, Texas about the same time that we moved here. She wrote that life was settling down and that she had  “ found a doctor, a dentist, a hairdresser, a chemist, a nail bar, a eyebrow bar, a paediatrician”  and that familiarity was bringing normality. Unfortunately I have not found many of these as most of them don’t even exist on the island – but I have found a flipping good cleaner – which I would happily trade all of the above  for (especially the eyebrow bar).
Living on an island means that pretty much everything is finite. Eventually you will meet and get to know just about everyone and them you. They will know everything about you, your children, your habits, your work and your plans. Likewise money is also finite here and this place is very expensive to live. So when the cash runs at out by the end of the month just about the only option open is to ask the children for their pocket money back.  Eventually we will also know every nook and cranny of this place. Space on an island is also finite.

I find all of this strangely reassuring. It’s simple and gives one an excellent platform for a good life. Of course it becomes claustrophobic and too intense sometimes and we all whinge and moan about the same old things but it’s not the ‘rat race’ , more like a playpen.

Are the children better off?

I ‘m no child psychologist and the children have adapted very quickly to constantly interrupting me and standing on my feet like I don’t really exist in human body form ( ie already taken for granted) but I do think children are probably only happy when you are. It’s not something to measure or even see, but I sense that as I start living a life that I enjoy – the children are secure that a saner mother is a good thing and that having a chef as a dad is super-cool.

Having endless sun-filled days sailing, playing tennis, catching lizards and chasing chickens dosn’t hurt either.

The Burning Question unanswered

“Was this the right move?”  people tentatively ask us. Will we survive all of this without bankrupting ourselves, getting divorced and eking out a marginal existence on the fringes of civilisation?

Occasionally it does feel like all of the above may apply, but the answer to whether this was the right thing to do for our family, is unequivocally, yes but I couldn’t really tell you why.
We’ve never worked so hard in our lives before, Tyler is rarely around on the weekends, I continue to resent housework (although it does seem to be getting easier) and we really do live on a scruffy third world dot which can drive one bats.   

We only have even more hard work to look forward to as our new business kicks in and it’s going to take us at least 2 years before we can move into our own home. It’s not for the faint-hearted and it is by no means an ‘opt-out’ type lifestyle, as we slave to put the kids through international school and worry about things like medical insurance.

It’s been tough and harder than we could ever have imagined. Just after I had burnt my back and Tyler had twisted his leg, we both slipped badly on the slimy driveway after torrential rain had caused more power failures.  The next day I was so stiff I couldn’t brush my teeth and had to do it sort of sideways and Tyler couldn’t even get his socks and shoes on. We just looked at each other and packed up laughing. We laughed again even louder that night when we were telling friends at a party, who after several glasses of Verve, thought it equally funny as we reanacted the morning. The blog that day would have been called “Too old for Paradise” – but we got through it.

San Juan, August 2011



Thursday, August 25, 2011

Hurricane Irene and Winslow Homer


We still await news from the Bahamas, post Hurricane Irene which should have passed over by tonight, onwards & upwards. We were pretty lucky here in the BVI and things are already back to normal.

I've been collecting Caribbean ephemera for some time, which was not always the most obvious or easy thing to do when living in Africa.  I'd long been intrigued by these beautiful, slightly bleak images that kept cropping up. So much so, that when I finally decided last week that I really wanted to know/buy/pin down who the artist was, I actually Googled "retro 1950's Caribbean hurricane paintings" on eBay,  as you do.

Amazingly, I found my images. More amazingly they were by Winslow Homer, the 19th Century American 'romantic' painter, who most people - including me, would probably associate with slightly over-blown heroic sea pictures with people clinging to boats and rocks. Stuffy yacht club pictures.  

However Mr Homer must have spent some time in the Bahamas with his water-colour kit (and possibly some rum?) and produced these wonderful paintings that still resonate even today with our modern day Caribbean hurricanes. 

Sadly, although I had optimistically looked them up an eBay,  finding out that they are by Winslow Homer rather rules out any possibility of acquiring one. I might just however, be in for buying my first 'print'.  I really love them.



Sunday, August 21, 2011

Tropical Storm Mix


Hurricane over the Bahamas - Winslow Homer



Tropical Storm Irene [Postscript: Irene subsequently was upgraded to a hurricane as it passed over us] makes for a nice excuse to stay at home today to fiddle around. The boys are tired from a busy week: James had a full week of cricket clinic, put together by the West Indian Cricket Board and Georgie & William went off to pottery lessons. We only have 10 days left of holidays and I'm counting down now. Three boys constantly calling:
"MAAAaaaaaarrrrrrrrrm, MOM, Mommylook, mom mom mom mom, LookMommylook look, MOMMMMEEEEE, Mum? Mom? Mooooooooooommmmm!!!!, MOM, Mom?, Mummy!!Moooooommmmmmmeeeeeeeee, ma, MUM, mommy where are yooooouu?"
has done my head in. Anyway, nothing like some good music to soothe the soul (and drown them out). Here's what I'm listening to at the moment:

Even though the song is about a kid who shoots up a mall (the youth of today, eh?) it's rather catchy. In fact the whole album is brilliant: Foster the People - pumped up kicks

In the same whistly vein is a brilliant UK band Metronomy with "The Look". I have a bit of a thing for girl drummers, they always look so cool. I've always really wanted a drum set.

OK, time for some grown-up dance. The type of music when Tyler does sometimes wonder who he married, and James (the 10 year old) says he prefers Classical, thank you. Calvin Harris - Feels so close (Nero Remix).  Love this.

If you didn't like Calvin, you'll really hate this: Magnetic Man's I Need Air. You need to skip the first minute (boring) but then it explodes (especially on headphones). Like I said before - definetly don't watch the video. Looks like it features some of CCTV's favourites. Sacringly Hoody heaven. 

OK, something softer: A brilliant South African Tasha Baxter - Ebb & Flow is going to go far. Clever girl.

My niece in Melbourne who runs half marathons along with looking after 3 girls and being a very talented illustrator, loves Adele. Hometown Glory is my favourite. She reminds me of Alison Moyet

The boys are bleating for breakfast, so I'd better get going. Happy Hurricanes.


Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Perfectomundo*


Our last night. Prickly Pear Island, North Sound
I have a few quiet hours today to gather my thoughts and memories of a truly wonderful holiday. We had the usual dramas and some maybe not so usual - like transferring all the Puerto Rican holiday money into someone else's bank account and our boat drifting it's anchor during the night on an isolated tropical island, which would have left us as real castaways had Tyler not paddled across the bay to rescue the boat from the rocks! We also had all the requisite holiday injuries including twisted backs, bruised legs, stubbed toes, bee stings, jellyfish stings and countless scrapes and bruises, but we will not dwell on any of this. It was, in short, a perfect holiday.
Just a very brief summary then: We spent 5 days in San Juan, Puerto Rico - which has shot into my Top 5 Best Cities list, up there with Paris & Rome. Old San Juan is an almost unaltered 16th Century Spanish Colonial fortress town - like a very posh Maputo (Portugal in Africa) which has just gone through a recent $800m facelift. Most of Old San Juan is a World Heritage Site.


Old San Juan
Not too many palm trees, no ersatz 'Caribbean' food, it is crammed full of little 17th and 19th century plaza's, bars, tapas restaurants, boulevards, elegant buildings, statues and is amazingly urbane in a Caribbean European way, but also part of the US. Extraordinary and highly recommended. We are just thrilled that it is right on our doorstep and will happily return again & again.

We shopped till we dropped, ate till we burst and enjoyed being pampered in our uber cool hotel La Concha which is situated on the Condado, San Juans equivalent of Miami's South Beach. Whilst very trendy the hotel still managed to be family-friendly and the kids were very happy to be there.  We eat some magnificent food; the best dim sum/tapas ever at Budathai, a truly memorable evening at Marmalade and fabulous tapas at El Convento. Tyler was one happy chappy.




Looking cool at La Concha

On Sunday the boys flew kites at the old fortifications El Morro (see photos on this flickr link) along with many other San Juan families which was a very special afternoon. 

Epic kite flying session, El Morro
We also spent an obscene amount of time at Plaza Las Americas working our way through a 2 page shopping list, buying 3 of everything per child (3 pairs of shoes, 3 shorts, 3 shirts, 3 backpacks...) which went on and on. We went to hairdressers, opticians, Toys R Us, Apple stores, book stores, Macy's, Sears, Walmart, Zara's, Mango, Old Navy, Sephora and got to sample the dubious delights of Dunkin' Donuts and Taco Bell (urgh and urgh) whilst the boys got to play lots of island yokels, gawking at things which they hadn't seen for over a year!

'Down Islanders'
We then whipped back to the Virgin Islands, missing Tropical Storm Emily luckily and jumped onto our little boat for the island-hopping part of our holiday. We had a rather relaxed travel itinerary (start in the south, sail north) and we'd left the camping/hotel question open, to see how it went. This is a flickr link for the photos of the island-hopping part.

Money Bay, Norman Island
Our first night was spent on the windward side (ie big seas) of Norman Island, which was lovely but had a few exciting moments (particularly off Brown Pants Point, which is fairly self-explanatory) and which tested our rusty sailing skills considerably and left us strongly concluding that we should putter and zoom on the leeward (Channel side), as opposed to rocking & rolling on the south seas.


Fascinating Salt Island
On Day 2 we stopped off at Salt Island to meet friends for lunch and ended up staying the night. Tyler went diving with the big boys and we ate delicious paella for dinner, made on the braai.


Day 3 saw us meeting up with more friends at The Baths on Virgin Gorda, which we nearly had to ourselves. We then went up to the North Sound of Virgin Gorda, which has to be my favourite part of the Virgin Islands and the perfect family holiday spot.

The Baths

Saba Rock

We stayed in a hotel on the Sunday night (bed, shower bliss) had dinner at Saba Rock and then on Day 4, after puttering around the North Sound a bit,  we found the perfect little spot on the back of Prickly Pear Island, overlooking Necker Island and hung out there for three days - snorkeling, fishing, paddle boarding, snoozing and generally doing very little.

*A very happy family Summer holiday in the islands. What little William in his Spanglish calls "perfectomundo". 

It was.


Prickly Pear Island



Eustacio Island in the background



About 9pm, ready for the tent